Under the motto “Organic”, Portugal Fashion’s latest edition showed that Portuguese fashion is alive and it is recommended.
In its 34th edition, Portugal Fashion gathered once more fashion big names, with 29 fashion shows both in Lisbon and in Porto. In the capital, Storytailors told a new story full of futuristic silhouettes made of ancient materials, such as woollen cloth, while the duo Alves/Gonçalves merged primitive with sophisticated as well as urban with tribal. «We have very feminine forms, where there is a lot of movement and that transgresses the classic, but always with the idea of sophistication», says Manuel Alves.
Back to Porto, was Júlio Torcato’s collection the first one to parade in the catwalk in Alfândega do Porto, mingling tuxedos with leather pants and, recalling early century’s decadent aristocratic luxury, fine wool suits gained a used look. «We have to reinvent ourselves at all stations», considered the designer.
Anabela Baldaque showed a collection rich in winter textures, with thick cloths combined with lightweight fabrics such as silks and mousselines, and Susana Bettencourt brought the “real fake”, a contrast between «what is true, what is created by nature and what is created by us», says she about a collection where stamped pieces have geometric shapes.
To design his pieces with exaggerated and functional volumes, Hugo Costa sought for inspiration in the samurai code of conduct and Estelita Mendonça explored the concept of vacuum, using materials like PVC or rubber in conjunction with cotton fabrics. «The transition to Portugal Fashion’s main catwalk brought me some surplus-value. In terms of customers, I think there are now more people paying attention to my creations», he believes.
Katty Xiomara showed “Infographic”, a feminine, urban and graphic collection, and also the capsule collection “Peanuts Played by Katty Xiomara.” «It is a line of sporty classics where we work all the Peanuts characters, which is quite different from what Katty Xiomara is», reveals the designer.
Diogo Miranda betted on texture and shapes contrasts, in a combination of the «50’s delicate and feminine silhouette with today’s versatile woman», the TM Collection presented “Alma Mater”, which highlights traditional pottery and jewellery motifs and Carlos Gil showed “A valsa dos pássaros”, with elegant silhouettes, strong colours and luxurious fabrics. «I wanted to convey sensuality, beauty and freedom so it had to have colour and glamour», explains the designer.
Miguel Vieira closed this edition in celebration, with “Uma noite de inverno”, «for very charming men and women», explains the designer, who presented outward’s oversized jackets and very warm fabrics combined with cooler items.