Abstrart gave the motto and artistic touches were hardly missing on the catwalk, from recycled egg cartons to the collections that will dress the warm season of 2014.
Lisbon was entrusted with the mission, by now habitual, of hosting the first day of the 33rd edition of Portugal Fashion, and the returned Storytailors were given the honour of opening the main catwalk, in a tribute, precisely, to the Portuguese capital. “Lisbon is extremely luminous,” João Branco explains. Added to the light were the Catholic symbols and dresses and outfits of jacket and trousers in pale shades.
The ‘second skin’ of the TM Collection by Teresa Martins flooded the catwalk with voluminous dresses, pleated skirts, straight trousers, loose jackets and long tunics in cotton, silk and linen, while the Alves/Gonçalves duo closed the day with elegant outfits in luxurious fabrics.
In Porto and with his first public appearance, the Mozambican colourfulness of Alexandre Tique, who was inspired by Maputo and its acacia flowers to create an urban and cheerful man, opened the remaining three days of shows, also marked by the ‘promotion’ of the young designers Daniela Barros, Estelita Mendonça, Hugo Costa and Susana Bettencourt to the main catwalk – in this edition covered by squashed egg cartons and panels of glass.
“It’s actually a reward for everything that we have done and it’s the reflection of what Portugal Fashion has done for us,” Hugo Costa considers, for the spring-summer suggesting male streetwear silhouettes, this time inspired by the street basket lifestyle and graphisms based on broken objects.
Elisabeth Teixeira was also in the limelight with a collection composed of sportswear silhouettes and tribal patterns, in keeping with the tribes of North Africa underlying the theme of this designer’s proposals. “My idea was to create a more urban and contemporary tribe – hence the mixture of very organic and traditional materials with sportier fabrics,” she explains.
Among the usual designers, Katty Xiomara, Anabela Baldaque, Diogo Miranda, Luís Buchinho, Fátima Lopes, Carlos Gil and Luís Onofre revealed their collections for spring-summer 2014, as did Miguel Vieira, who was surprised by a tribute to his 25 years of career. “It was deeply moving for me to see the video, with the many people who have been part of my life for so many years now,” he states.
Felipe Oliveira Baptista was entrusted with closing this 33rd edition, with the collection ‘The Sheltering Sky’, filled with proposals that combine, to the perfection, the masculinity of military clothing with a feminine and sensual flair that promises to liven up the warm season of the following year.